Monday, 20 June 2016

Review of Auberge de l'Ill, Illhaeusern - A Three-Star Legend

This was a very difficult review to write, and I had to have a good hard think about whether I should indeed write it.  You see, I was meant to have lunch here, at the beautiful Auberge de l' Ill, with winemaker Etienne Hugel and his wife Kaoru on the 16th of April.  Etienne left us the week before, and at the entrance to the Protestant Church of Ste Marguerite in Riquewihr, I saw a monumental wreath in the signature "Maggi yellow" of Famille Hugel, from the Haeberlin-Baumann family, the founders and custodians since 1878 of the Auberge de l'Ill and its predecessor the Arbre Vert.

Thursday, 9 June 2016

Review of Maison Troisgros, Roanne: Evolution and Tradition

What does it mean to have three Michelin stars?  The Little Red Book, ahem forgive me, the Red Guide, states that a three-star meal must boast "(e)xceptional cuisine, worth a special journey".  During my Lyonnais detour, I put that boast to the test at Maison Troisgros, where the Troisgros family have reputedly been serving such a cuisine since 1968.

Monday, 23 May 2016

Review of Paul Bocuse - Fifty-One Years of Three Michelin Stars, and Still Going Strong

After the tragic events of last month, I needed to tear myself away from Alsace, if only for a few days.  So I jumped on the slow train to Lyon, another of France's reputed gastronomic capitals.  Here was one of my "bucket list" restaurants, the Auberge du Pont de Collonges of the legendary chef Paul Bocuse.

Thursday, 14 April 2016

Etienne Hugel - The Loss of Another Wine Titan

I have gotten to know quite a few winemakers over the last few years.  but very few would I genuinely call "friend".  Etienne Hugel, the formidable 12th generation co-owner of Famille Hugel of Riquewihr, Alsace, was one such.

Emily, me, Etienne and Kaoru c. 2012